Lanvin | Fall Winter 2020/2021 | Full Show

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Lanvin is a French multinational high fashion house, which was founded by Jeanne Lanvin in 1889. It is the third oldest French fashion house still in operation. In 1990, the house was taken over by the Orcofi Group, then sold to l’Oréal in 1996. Wikipedia

Lanvin made clothes for her daughter, Marie-Blanche de Polignac, which began to attract the attention of a number of wealthy people, who requested copies for their own children. Soon, Lanvin was making dresses for their mothers,[2] and some of the most famous names in Europe[who?] were included in the clientele of her new boutique on the rue du Faubourg Saint-HonoréParis. In 1909, Lanvin joined the Syndicat de la Couture, which marked her formal status as a couturière. The Lanvin logo was inspired by a photograph taken for Jeanne Lanvin as she attended a ball with her daughter wearing matching outfits in 1907.[2]

From 1923, the Lanvin empire included a dye factory in Nanterre.[3] In the 1920s, Lanvin opened shops devoted to home decor, menswear, furs and lingerie, but her most significant expansion was the creation of Lanvin Parfums SA in 1924. “My Sin”, an animalic-aldehyde based on heliotrope, was introduced in 1925, and is widely considered a unique fragrance[citation needed]. It would be followed by her signature fragranceArpège, in 1927, said to have been inspired by the sound of her daughter’s practising her scales on the piano.

After Jeanne Lanvin

When Lanvin died in 1946, ownership of the firm was ceded to her daughter Marguerite,[4] who had shared management of the firm from 1942 with a cousin and then a fashion-industry expert. See Antonio del Castillo. Because Marie-Blanche de Polignac was childless when she died in 1958, the ownership of the House of Lanvin went to a cousin, Yves Lanvin.

From mid-1960s through to the 1996 takeover by L’Oreal, Lanvin was run by Bernard Lanvin. The export department was in the original factory in Nanterre where all the perfumes were made and bottled. The administrative Head Office was in Paris. In 1979, Lanvin bought its independence from Squibb USA and a major PR promotional tour was arranged by Paris in the United States in the same year.

Midland Bank bought a stake in the company from the family in March 1989, and installed Léon Bressler to revamp the firm’s faded image. However, in February 1990, Midland backed out and sold Lanvin to Orcofi, a French holding company led by the Vuitton family. From Orcofi, 50% of the House of Lanvin was acquired by L’Oréal in 1994, 66% in 1995 and 100% in 1996. Under L’Oréal’s diverse umbrella, an array of CEOs who circulate within the French fashion industry have directed the company.

In August 2001, Lanvin [5] was taken private again by investor group Harmonie S.A., headed by Shaw-Lan Wang, a Taiwanese media magnate.[5] In 2005, Joix Corporatic was the Lanvin ready-to-wear licence holder in Japan with retail value of €50 million.[6]

On 4 December 2009, Lanvin opened their first US boutique in Bal Harbour, Florida.[7]

In 2011, Lanvin sales reached €203 million, not counting an estimated €4.5 million in revenues from licences.[5]

On 20 November 2013, Lanvin became the official tailor of Arsenal FC.[8]

On 28 October 2015, Lanvin announced that Elbaz was no longer at the company, due to differences of opinion with the shareholders. He was replaced by Bouchra Jarrar in March 2016. Jarrar left the following year and was succeeded by Olivier Lapidus, who departed on 23 March 2018, after only two seasons. Lapidus’ successor was not named upon his exit.

In February 2018, Shanghai-based conglomerate Fosun International paid €120m to become the majority stakeholder in Lanvin.[9] In March 2020, Jean-Philippe Hecquet stepped down from his role as CEO after 18 months, while Joann Cheng, chairman of Fosun Fashion Group, Lanvin’s parent company, and head of the board of directors of Lanvin, became interim CEO. [10]

Creative directors since 2001

Alber Elbaz

In October 2001, Alber Elbaz was appointed the Lanvin artistic director for all activities, including interiors. In 2006, he introduced new packaging for the fashion house, featuring a forget-me-not flower color, Lanvin’s favorite shade which she purportedly saw in a Fra Angelico fresco (Suzy Menkes, 2005.). On 2 September 2010, it was announced by H&M that Lanvin would be their guest designer collaboration for the Winter 2010 collection.[5] The collection would be available to view beginning 4 November 2010 at HM.com. The collection would then be available to buy in 200 stores worldwide, on 20 November, with a first look sale the day before exclusively at the H&M store in Las Vegas.[11] The main face of the collection video was supermodel Natasha Poly [12]

Lucas Ossendrijver

Lucas Ossendrijver started with Kenzo’s menswear in 1997. In 2000, he moved to Munich where fashion designer Kostas Murkudis gave him free rein over the men’s line. Back in Paris, he then spent four years with Hedi Slimane at Dior Homme: his luxury fashion debut. In 2006, Lucas Ossendrijver was appointed the head of the men’s line. The 2006 men’s ready-to-wear collection was inspired by a Jean-Luc Godard film. He launched the first LANVIN urban sneakers, now with their patent leather toe caps, while presenting his AW 2006 collections; the shoes later became available in women’s collections. While enjoying a revitalized reputation in luxury, Lanvin received mainstream press in the United States in May 2009 when Michelle Obama was photographed wearing a popular line of Lanvin’s sneakers made of suede with grosgrain ribbon laces and metallic pink toe caps while volunteering at a Washington, D.C. food bank. The sneaker shoes were reportedly retailed at $540.[13]

Bouchra Jarrar

Bouchra Jarrar was appointed as Creative Director by Lanvin in March 2016.[14] She is a Permanent Member of the French Chambre Syndicale de la Couture since 2014, she was a Guest Member as of January 2010. She worked as Nicolas Ghesquière’s studio director at Balenciaga for 10 years. In 2006, she moved on to French couture house Christian Lacroix — working alongside the designer as director of haute couture until the company closed in 2009. She founded her own house in 2010 and earned the official Haute Couture appellation in 2013.

In 2017 and with the preparation of only two ready-to-wear collections, Jarar stepped down from her position.[15] Upon her departure, Lanvin released the following statement : “Lanvin and Bouchra Jarrar have mutually decided to put an end to their collaboration”.[16]

Bruno Sialelli

The 31-year-old French designer, Bruno Sialelli, was named the new creative director of Lanvin in January 2019.[17] Lanvin revealed in a statement that Sialelli’s appointment marks a “pivotal new direction”.[18] In less than 5 years, Lanvin has had 5 creative directors, including Olivier Lapidus, who left in 2018. Sialelli had worked with Jonathan Anderson at Spanish brand Loewe prior to the appointment and was presumed to be facing “great pressure to turn things around for the maison.”[19]

Jeanne-Marie Lanvin (1867-1946)

Jeanne-Marie Lanvin (French: [ʒan maʁi lɑ̃vɛ̃]; 1 January 1867 – 6 July 1946) was a French haute couturefashion designer. She founded the Lanvin fashion house and the beauty and perfume company Lanvin Parfums.

Early life

Jeanne Lanvin was born in Paris on 1 January 1867, the eldest of 11 children of Constantin Lanvin and Sophie Deshayes. She became an apprentice milliner at Madame Félix in Paris at the age of 16 and trained with Suzanne Talbot before becoming a milliner on the rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in 1889.[1]

Career

In 1909, Lanvin joined the Syndicat de la Couture (fr), which marked her formal status as a couturière. The clothing Lanvin made for her daughter began to attract the attention of a number of wealthy people who requested copies for their own children. Soon, Lanvin was making dresses for their mothers, and some of the most famous names in Europe were included in the clientele of her new boutique on the rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, Paris.Designs by Mme Lanvin in La Gazette du Bon Ton, 1922

From 1923, the Lanvin empire included a dye factory in Nanterre. In the 1920s, Lanvin opened shops devoted to home décor, menswearfurs and lingerie.

However, her most significant expansion was the creation of Lanvin Parfums SA in 1924 and the introduction of her signature fragranceArpège, in 1927, inspired by the sound of her daughter Marguerite practicing her scales on the piano. (Arpège is French for arpeggio.)

In 1922, Lanvin collaborated with celebrated French designer Armand-Albert Rateau in redesigning her apartment, her homes and her businesses.[2] (The living room, boudoir and bathroom of the apartment was reassembled in 1985 in the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris.) For this domicile, Rateau designed some remarkable 1920–22 furniture in bronze.[3]The pair developed a friendship, and Rateau came aboard Lanvin’s empire as manager of Lanvin-Sport, also designing the Lanvin spherical La Boule perfume flacon for Arpège (originally produced by the Manufacture Nationale de Sèvres). To this day, Arpège perfume containers are imprinted with Paul Iribe‘s gold image (rendered in 1907) of Lanvin and her daughter Marguerite. Rateau also managed Lanvin-Décoration (an interior-design department, established 1920) in the main store on the rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré.[3]

Personal life, death and legacy

In 1895, Lanvin married Count Emilio di Pietro, an Italian nobleman, and two years later gave birth to a daughter, Marguerite (also known as Marie-Blanche) (1897–1958). The couple’s only child, Marguerite di Pietro became an opera singer, married the Count Jean de Polignac (1888–1943), and became, on the death of her mother, the director of the Lanvin fashion house.[1] Lanvin and di Pietro divorced in 1903. Lanvin’s second husband, whom she married in 1907, was Xavier Melet, a journalist at the newspaper Les Temps and later the French consul in Manchester, England.[1]

Lanvin died on 6 July 1946. Her original office is preserved in Lanvin’s corporate offices at 16 Rue Boissy d’Anglas in Paris.[4]

Edited by: EZorrilla.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeanne_Lanvin

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lanvin_(company)

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